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BUT WHAT ABOUT
DORMANCY?
Most amaryllis
growing guides will tell
you that your bulb 'needs' to go dormant. This is a
myth. In fact, some varieties, like Amaryllis
Cybister, must not be allowed to go dormant.
However, forced
dormancy is useful if
you
want your Amaryllis bulb to bloom at a preset time (e.g.
winter holidays). Read our special care instructions for
dormancy.
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STAGE 3(FALL/WINTER):BULB MAY 'REST'
LIGHT: keep your Amaryllis, indoors,
in the brightest window that you have, over the winter months. A
greenhouse, of you have one, is great as well.
TEMPERATURE: Move your Amaryllis indoors in the fall when night
temperatures fall to about 50°. Once indoors, keep them at normal room
temperatures. Bulbs which lose some of their leaves or seem to slow down
considerably, should be moved to cooler spots if possible (60-65°) until they
resume more active growth. The rest can be kept at normal household
temperatures.
WATER: As it near the end of summer, growth starts to slows down as
the days get shorter, and the nights cooler. Start reducing the frequency of
watering as plants will not require as much. Remove older leaves as they
fade.
FERTILIZER: Reduce fertilizer application in winter,
perhaps to once a month, or slightly more if your plants are more
vigorous. Always use a flowering plant food.
When your plants begin to show signs of new
growth and vigor with brighter light and warmer temperatures in the
spring, increase watering. You may also wish to repot your
bulb at this stage, before any flowers
emerge! Plants should then begin their blooming cycle again.
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